Art and History, Downtown, Uptown

‘The Bronx is up and the Battery’s down,” sang three sailors in On the Town, as tuneful as a musical can be. There’s nothing about the Bronx here but a place close to it: Madame Jumel’s house on West 160th Street, now called the Morris-Jumel Mansion. It was Washington’s headquarters during the Battle of Harlem Heights and is still Manhattan’s oldest standing house. It’s linked with Trinity Church in odd and poignant ways.