The Year We Got Smashed

I can’t remember the last time I saw a burger that didn’t have a lacy edge. I know they still exist out there, half-pound bistro burgers oozing with juice, but these are not the burgers that trend, the burgers that beckon obsession on TikTok. No, the burgers I am told I want are meaty doilies, pressed nearly paper thin, ground beef fried to a crisp.

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