What Effect Does Michelin Have on a City’s Dining Scene?

​​Back in October, Vancouver became the second city in Canada to have its own Michelin Guide. After weeks of feverish speculation, the city scored just eight one-star restaurants and 12 Bib Gourmands (the guide’s “great food at a great price” category), with 40 others on the recommended list. But after the flurry of press releases, joyful Instagram posts, and weapons-grade whining from a few who were left off the list, a somewhat altered Vancouver dining scene has emerged from the fray with hiked prices and impossible-to-score reservations.

“It’s a cash-grab for sure,” said one Vancouver chef who asked to remain anonymous. “After the guide came out, I saw a place on the recommended list charging $36 for cacio e pepe. That’s cheese, pepper, and buttered noodles. Give me a break!” Scoring a hot reservation — usually feasible a week or so in advance — now requires planning 30 to 60 days ahead for a newly Michelin-minted spot. But is this par for the course when Michelin comes to town, or just #VancouverProblems?

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